LA NIÑA

We are into the month of May and this is supposed to be the start of the sailing season on Australia’s east coast. I left Bundaberg on May 3rd and sailed to the island of Lady Musgrave. An easy downwind sail in perfect wind conditions. I anchored in the lagoon and during the night the port side of the lazy jack broke, but I could not fix it as there was no one to hoist me up the mast. 

I left early in the morning for a day sail to Heron Island. I anchored and dinghy-ed to the jetty but was turned away. So this is why I was the only sailboat there. Still, I decided to spend the night at anchor and continue next day to Cape Capricorn on the mainland. 

As I said before, the month of May marks the beginning of the sailing season on the east coast of Australia. 

As I was leaving Cape Capricorn, the wind picked up considerably and sailing in very choppy seas became very uncomfortable. I had to seek shelter in Keppel Bay Marina near the town with an improbable name of Yeppoon.

Torrential rains, forty-knot winds, rough seas. I was stuck in the marina for a week. 

La Niña was back with a vengeance.

A million-dollar motor yacht that was at anchor outside the marina dragged its anchor, was thrown on the rocks and sank. Apparently the owner did not have the money for insurance and the marina would not accept a vessel without insurance.

My next stop was Pearl Bay on the mainland. I spent a quiet night but in the morning, as I was hoisting the main sail, the halyard broke and the sail came crashing down. I will have to go to Mackay for repairs, but first I wanted to stop over on Percy Island.

There were four other sailboats at anchor in West Bay of Percy Island. According to tradition, all crews gather at the yacht club for sundowners and socializing.

Aussies are probably the most friendly and extroverted people on the planet. Before I even had a chance to give him the once over, a husky Australian shook my hand and said: “Howya doin’, mate. My name is Bob. What’s yours.” And in an instant we were all friends, sharing stories about our sailing adventures.

The following day I sailed to Curlew Island where the anchorage seemed very secure and sheltered. However, during the night strong gusts of wind from both sides of the small island made my boat swing around its anchor. In the morning I found the anchor chain and the bridle tied up in a big knot. It took me quite a while to disentangle the bridle and chain. I left in a hurry.

The wind was getting stronger, peaking at forty knots. Constant downpours, poor visibility and choppy seas made the sailing trip less than enjoyable. I was cold and wet and tired. 

Once again La Niña had reared its ugly head. 

I had no choice but to seek refuge in Mackay Marina. Arriving in the marina, I requested assistance on channel 16 but the marina office didn’t seem to understand what I wanted. As I was single-handed, it would be impossible for me to maneuver the boat into a dock, jump off the boat and secure the boat to the pontoon. Fortunately, two local sailors realized my predicament and waited for me patiently on the pontoon to take my lines.

The wind showed no sign of letting up. I was stuck in the marina for yet another week. Fortunately, my neighbor Greg turned out to be a perfect neighbor. He often invited me to his beautiful Beneteau Oceanis 58 called Escape and plied me with food and drink and provided me with a wealth of information about the local cruising area and Australia in general. 

I hope I can return the favor when he visits me in Slovenia.

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